The first fire. It's like the first caramel apple, the first sweater, the first football game. When the time comes, you'll know it.

But before you look for the extra-long matches or flip the switch to turn on the gas, there's something you should do. Have the fireplace inspected, whether it's wood-burning or gas.

Maybe those mourning doves that woke you up this summer built a nest up there. A summer storm may have caused a crack in the chimney. Unless you've been up there to retrieve a Frisbee, you probably don't know it.

"Even if you don't use your fireplace that often, we recommend you have it inspected," said Craig Fata, public education officer and fire inspector for the Normal Fire Department. "Get a set of eyes on everything from the firebox to the chimney cap and make sure everything's in good working order."

A blockage in the flue or chimney can cause a fire or deadly buildup of carbon monoxide. Jerry Simpson has been inspecting and sweeping out fireplaces for more than a decade and has nests and damaged gas starter pipes on display in his business showroom, Chimney Master in Normal.

Homeowners rarely think about the gas starter pipe that sits below the grate, but it should be checked every year. If it's bent or appears to be rusting, it's time for a new one, he said. At his business, a new one runs $20, $30 installed.

"You have a fire over them all the time, and it just breaks that metal down," he said. "Instead of having eight to 10 holes to light the fire, you have a big opening a half an inch blowing nothing but pure gas. You try and light it, and it can blow up in your face."

When he inspects a fireplace, he starts inside, shining a flashlight into the firebox, checking for cracks that could allow heat to escape into the walls, starting a fire. The temperature inside a chimney can reach 2,000 degrees.

On the roof, he uses brushes to dislodge creosote, the residue from a wood fire that sticks to the inner walls and can cause a fire. An inspection and cleaning takes about 30 minutes and costs $80.

With gas fireplaces, he also inspects the logs to make sure they're working properly. Heavy soot may mean a lack of good combustion, which can create a buildup of carbon monoxide.

He and Fata offered a few other safety tips:

* Burn only seasoned wood (wood that's dried at least one year).

* Follow fire log directions, burning only one at a time and not adding wood to the fire. Fire logs create 60 percent less creosote but still cause buildup.

* Make smaller fires, which burn hotter, meaning less smoke, less creosote.

* Never start a fire with newspaper; the ink will create more creosote. Wrapping paper is off limits, too; it emits dangerous chemicals when burned.

* Always dispose of fireplace ashes in a sealed metal container.

* Test your carbon monoxide detector and smoke alarms and replace the batteries.

* Make sure the carbon monoxide detector is outside the bedrooms. A common mistake is plugging it in near the furnace or water heater, where it might give false readings. Carbon monoxide acts as an anesthetic while you're sleeping, sending you into a deeper sleep. Having the alarm sound just outside your bedroom will awaken you.

Kate Arthur can be reached at karthur@pantagraph.com.

Other fall chores

Of course you're not going to get to all these chores; football has started and the TV season premieres will kick off in a few weeks. But check off a few critical ones and vow to get to a few more over the winter.

Plumbing

* Know where the main water and gas or oil shutoff valves are and how to use them. Mark the locations by attaching tags to the valves with bread ties.

* Check the water heater. Does it vent properly? While the heater is in operation, hold a lighted match next to the vent and then wave it out (do not blow it out). Check to see if the smoke is pulled up the chimney. If not, have the system professionally inspected.

* Is there a ¾-inch metal overflow line on the water heater's safety valve? The end of this line should extend to within 6 inches of the floor or drain to the outside, 6 inches above the ground.

* Disconnect garden hoses and drain outside pipes.

* Replace worn faucet fittings and leaking washers.

* Clean clogged and slow-draining fixtures.

* Insulate water pipes exposed to cold air.

Heating/air conditioning

(Check with unit off)

* Check for worn or loose belts on blower motors.

* Oil blower bearings if they have a built-in oil port.

* Clean the burner area with a soft brush and a vacuum.

* Replace filters now, and then every two months. Wash electronic filters and replace seasonal filters.

* Humidifiers should be cleaned and chlorinated. Replace filters; make sure the water supply is turned on for the winter and the drain is clear. An unkempt humidifier can be a breeding ground for mold and mildew.

* Seal leaky ductwork in unheated spaces.

* Do not cover outside units or air conditioners or heat pumps. Spray clean the outside coils with a garden hose. Heat pumps have to be elevated above normal snow depths. Clean around the base of units to allow water to escape.

Electrical

* If you have ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs), trip and reset them once a month. Other breakers need to be tripped and reset every six months.

* Replace broken receptacles and covers, especially outside receptacles.

* Check for frayed or broken extension cords and replace immediately.

* Check the outside wiring coming from the utility company for frayed insulation, and check to see if any wires are covered by tree limbs. Contact your utility company if there is a problem.

* Clean outdoor lighting fixtures.

* Check smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors and replace batteries as needed. Install smoke alarms if you don't have them. Place one alarm in each bedroom and one in the hallway outside the bedrooms.

Attic

* Check the insulation. It should be spread evenly over the attic floor and should not touch the roof's decking near the outside walls. A 2-inch air gap is needed for ventilation.

* Check the underside of the roof's decking for signs of past leaks or black-rot staining.

* Insulate and cover attic access openings.

* Uncover recessed lighting fixtures. Covered fixtures can build up enough heat to cause a fire.

Lawn and garden

* Aerate lawn; seed bare spots and fertilize.

* Weed perennial beds and transplant or divide plants.

* Replace mulch around shrubs and trees.

* Make final cut to lawn, leaving it 2 to 3 inches long and well watered before its winter nap.

* Water trees and shrubs until the first freeze.

* Plant spring-flowering bulbs.

* Prune trees and shrubs, except for spring-flowering varieties. After using shears or loppers to prune a tree that shows blight, disinfect the blades before using them on the next tree to avoid spreading the disease.

* Clean grass and dirt from the lawn mower. Drain oil, wash or replace filters and sharpen blades.

* Rub wooden handles of shovels, hoes and rakes with linseed oil to prevent drying and cracking. Rub blades of pruning shears with vegetable oil to prevent rust.

* Prepare houseplants for winter by washing off pots and leaves and repotting as needed.

* Bring in houseplants that have summered outdoors, making sure to isolate them for a while to keep hitchhiking insects from other plants.

Miscellaneous

* Order firewood and stack 8 inches to a foot off the ground.

* Caulk or seal air leaks in lighting fixtures, electrical outlets or baseboards along outside walls.

* Clean out window wells.

* Oil, tighten and realign moving parts of garage doors.

* Put away patio furniture, lawn chairs, boating accessories, water toys and other summer items.

* Clean under decks and porches.

* Clean and store outdoor grills.

* Clean lint from dryer hose.

* Check concrete or asphalt driveway, walks and patio for cracks and separation of joints. These need to be cleaned and filled with latex joint filler when the outside temperature gets higher than 60 degrees. In the spring, grasses and weeds will take root in the cracks.

* Treated wooden decks should be cleaned and sealed with a water-repellent sealer.

* Clean weed trimmers and garden equipment.

* Seal concrete and blacktop driveways.

Roofs and gutters

* Look for damaged, loose or missing shingles, tiles or shakes.

* Check gutters for leaky seams, unsecured hangers and improper drainage of the downspouts. Clean gutters and caulk the inside seams using a clear or white silicone caulk.

* Install gutter guards to keep leaves out.

* Make sure the downspouts direct runoff water at least 6 feet from the foundation.

* Check the flashing around the chimney or where a roof meets a wall. Seal open areas with a good grade of silicone caulk.

* Check the valley where two roof lines meet. It is usually of a lighter weight than the rest of the roofing.

* Check skylights, antenna mounts, mounts for any mechanical item on the roof, plumbing and roof vents and caulk or repair if necessary.

* Check gable vents and repair any missing or broken screen coverings.

* Check the chimney for loose mortar and caulk and tuckpoint (refill with mortar) as needed.

* Have the chimney cleaned.

* Seal the cracks in the chimney top and have a chimney cap installed to prevent rain, birds and small animals from entering the flue.

* Make sure all roof-mounted vents, gable vents and soffit vents are open and clear for adequate air flow.

Walls, windows and doors

* Wash windows, screens and window tracks.

* Check for blistered or peeling paint. Scrape, prime and repaint when weather permits. Chips of lead-based paint should be collected and properly disposed of.

* Check for loose siding and reattach where needed. Caulk and seal joints.

* Fiberboard siding materials need constant attention to prevent decay. Paint or seal exposed edges and seams.

* Check for loose mortar and tuckpoint as needed.

* Look for depressions or washed-out areas next to the foundation. Replace dirt in low areas and make a slope away from the house of ½ inch per foot on all sides of the home. Keep soil at least 6 inches from wood and fiberboard siding and trim.

* Look for missing or separated caulking and recaulk all exterior openings around windows, doors and where the utilities enter the structure. Remove and replace older, loose caulking.

* Check storm windows. The upper panel should overlap the bottom panel on the exterior side. Make sure the small weep holes at the bottom of the frames are open. Clean as needed.

* Cover basement windows with plastic sheeting or plastic bubbles.

Crawl spaces

* Check the crawl space for evidence of standing water or flooding. This moisture will find its way to the living areas of the home. If flooding is a persistent problem, install a foundation drainage system or sump pump.

* Remove vegetation and other debris from the crawl space and cover the ground with a heavy 6-millimeter plastic vapor barrier. This will help keep additional moisture from entering the home. Even a dry crawl space can generate up to 15 gallons of ground moisture a day.

* Check for rotting floor joists and rim boards, usually found on the northwest side of the home. These will have a blackish color on the ends of the boards. This is usually due to high humidity levels in the crawl space. Replace rotted wood and treat infected areas with a preservative.

* Check under bathrooms for signs of leaky fixtures.

- KATE ARTHUR